Written by John Swart – From July 2014 –
Heavy Truckin’ to Truckee –
July 4, 2014 –
I’m currently in tourist-gorged, beautiful Truckee, taking a day of rest and revitalization at a trail angel’s home before forest re-entry early tomorrow.
After last report from Bridgeport, I embarked on a rather ambitious feat of hiking to meet my friend Ricardo Jones in Truckee this past Tuesday. Ricardo moved from Asheville to Sacramento (via Phoenix) three years ago.
I planned my arrival to coincide with Ricardo’s days off. I had to cover 137 miles, leaving late Wednesday afternoon and then arriving the following Tuesday in order to meet him at historic Donner Pass. It meant several 20+ mile days, back to back.
Descending out of Sonora Pass was all well and good. The afternoon was warm and the scenery quite exquisite. I climbed upward with views over distant peaks and dramatic towering rock formations. I then descended into a forested valley (with minimal mosquitoes, thankfully), where I found a very pleasant site. I decided to “cowboy camp” (sleeping without a tent) under a glittering canopy of stars, which is such a strong reminder for me of that bigger connection to the universe.
I awoke at 3:30 a.m. and noticed there were no more stars. I then felt the first few drops on my exposed camping situation. Happy Birthday ran through my mind as I hurriedly packed up my gear before a full-on deluge ensued. My attempted haste was not helped by a sore swollen lower leg ligament (or some such thing).
As I hiked through the pre-dawn darkness, the weather deteriorated into a cold blowing rain. I became rather cold, and my hands started to stiffen and lose dexterity. The only plausible way to deal with the situation was to keep moving to avoid hypothermia and hope the storm would pass. Thankfully, about 3 p.m. (24 miles later), the weather broke.
Exhausted and spent, I struggled to a road crossing at Ebbets Pass and received a hearty welcome from a trail angel named Chipmunk who offered hot coffee and eggs, along with chili and other goodies. Quite the birthday treat (and reprieve from possibly the worst hiking weather yet). Caffeinated and fed, I easily covered four more miles through an area of beautiful, rugged cliffs and open, expansive vistas for a grand total of 29 big ones (miles, that is).
Twenty-four lackadaisical miles followed the next day then came 14 into Lake Tahoe, where I bought new shoes and resupplied. I then hiked, well-heeled (ha!), three more miles out of town that evening to complete the day.
Now there remained 58 miles to my rendezvous with Ricardo. I put in two 24-milers and one tenner in three days to arrive two hours ahead of schedule, no less.
The last few days the trail often conjoined with the Tahoe Rim Trail. There I was afforded outstanding views of the expansive, deep blue lake; surrounding mountains and forests; and many smaller alpine lakes.
After running errands in Lake Tahoe and Reno, Ricardo and I settled into Circus Circus Casino and Hotel, attracted by the cheap rates and buffets (quite the contrast to my current life, I must say). Yesterday came the big reward when we ventured to Sierra Hot Springs in very rural and pastoral Sierraville. The healing, soothing warmth of the hot waters was splendid.
Today I had planned on going back to the trail, but have ended up at the house of a trail angel, whom I met in the Truckee post office. A very nice turn of events, as it will afford me a bit more rest and repose in advance of what I hope will be high-mileage days in northern California.
I continue meeting more hikers and have had great encounters in both the towns and on the trail. In a week’s time I should be at the half-way point. I’m feeling fit and full of anticipation of the many adventures that lie ahead.
The trail continues to teach me the life lessons I need on a moment-to-moment basis. My job, as always, is to continue to pay attention and stay present to the here and now.
__________________________________________________
Sierra City Quickie
July 6, 2014
Howdy, all…
Popped out of the woods this a.m. into this very woodsy, cute-as-a-button little town, Sierra City. I left Truckee on July 4th, and I was quite grateful to escape the holiday crush ensuing there. When I re-entered the cool forest, the peace and serenity totally embraced my being.
After roughly two days of hiking and some very pretty terrain, I rolled in here for some much needed caffeination and cooked food. I hope to grab a swim in the local river and then attack the 2700-foot climb out of this picturesque little valley.
The elevations are dropping as the trail heads north. In fact, the elevation will not touch 10,000 feet again the rest of the way, and that’s a height we were quite accustomed to throughout the Sierras.
I was very happy to see the reappearance of live oaks today as I neared town. Apparently (and today is proof) the lower elevations will be accompanied by higher temperatures (which is certainly the case today at 95 degrees).
I continue to be the recipient of wonderful acts of kindness and generosity. My experience grows that this is basic human nature, often lurking just beneath the surface of old conditioned ways of relating to the world.
A prime example was the trail angel, Freeloader, aka Tom, who took three of us hikers into his lovely home in Truckee. He not only gave us the run of his residence, he also chauffeured us all over town. A totally selfless act of kindness and generosity. I look at him both as an inspiration and as a teacher.
And then, when hiking out, I met Beth from Reno, who, after a short conversation, offered me a shower and accommodations in her condo. These occurrences seem more the norm than the exception these days. And along those lines (on a personal note): Sunny Flaig and Guy Burch, I’ll be dealing with you two!
So merrily I plod, trudge, stumble (had a hard fall in my first 100 feet of hiking yesterday) along. I find so much more revealed as I progress forward. As the midway point of this journey approaches, my practice of presence in the moment and connection with the forest continues.
I’m starting a 91-mile stretch today, so I won’t be able to report for a bit. ‘Til then, may you all be happy, peaceful and well.
________________________________________________
Belden Blast
July 11, 2014
Another quickie from the trail. Hiked down (or more like plunged) into this beautiful, deep river gorge in the tiny village of Belden, California. I’m on the way back up today (fortified, fortunately, with java and chocolate-covered espresso beans). Spent the night at a wonderful trail angel’s cottage on the Feather River. I continue to experience amazing generosity and kindness along the way, which I will recount in a later post.
I’ll hit the half-way point—mile 1325—tomorrow. On Sunday, I’ll jump off the trail in Chester, California to catch the World Cup Finals with other hiker friends. I’ll do a complete update from there.
Until then, I will continue to commune in this most magnificent cathedral, practicing the miracle of momentary awareness. So off I go for a 3000-4000-foot climb and more adventures in wilderness….
________________________________________________
Sweet 1600 (miles, that is)
July 29, 2014
Hello, from the far reaches of northern California. I’m in a little postage stamp of a town called Etna. Haven’t reported in lately as have been covering many miles and spending very little time off trail. Plus, I’ve had some challenges which have made me less inclined to post.
I am now at mile 1607 on the trail. I’ve been averaging over 20 miles per day in recent weeks. In four to five days, I’ll be entering Oregon.
Since last report, I have passed through varied and beautiful landscapes including Lassen National Forest and Volcanic Park, Trinity Alps, the wilderness around Mount Shasta, and the Russian Wilderness. There have been a multitude of lakes, evergreen forests, towering rock formations, and stunning vistas.
When I’ve been in towns, I’ve mostly done what is called “Near Zeros,” which means going into town one day and leaving the following day. Since there is resupply and other activities to do, it unfortunately affords little time for blogging.
I’m also finding the rigors of hiking can leave me in an emotionally diminished state that results in mood fluctuations. Sometimes I feel so at peace and ease in the wilderness, and other times I feel stressed and concerned, particularly when I’m physically fatigued. In the past week I’ve also realized that I have a very strong caffeine dependence. So I am now on a hiatus from coffee.
I continue to walk alone and do my practice of being mindful and present, with continuing good results. Often my default mental mode is to obsess over what might or could happen. But when I settle into the breath and into my senses—the physical sensations, sights, sounds, and smells of the moment—I realize that this is all there is. Everything else is merely a mental formation, unconnected to reality.
When I have these present-based moments, everything becomes fine just the way it is. Nothing has to be done or changed—just lived. It is perhaps the most difficult, albeit simple, task I will ever undertake.
My mental state right now, for example, is quite poor. I’m lying in a hammock writing this blog, and my mind is obsessing over things I want to be different. Right now, I mostly just want to get back into the forest tomorrow and resume my mindful practices.
Editorial note: John called the morning after writing the above post. After a good night’s sleep, he was feeling “most wonderful in energy and disposition.”
____________________________________________________
“I have a penchant for immersion in other cultures and spiritual practices. I consider the forest to be my cathedral where I experience my most intimate communion with my personal divine.”
John Swart has recently spent four months in a yoga Ashram in Virginia, and has embarked on his next adventure which includes travels in Europe and Asia. He will be writing an accompanying blog throughout his travels.
Also while travelling, John plans to work on a book based on his experiences hiking the Pacific Crest Trail, which will greatly expand on his existing blog content.
In October of 2014, John completed the 2,650 mile Pacific Crest Trail. For him, a phenomenal journey that, “… confirms my growing awareness that the essence of human nature is kindness and generosity. I feel I have greatly deepened my own cultivation of these qualities as a consequence of the many examples I have experienced along the trail. My heart opens wider.”