Near Pritchard Park along Patton Avenue is a traditional Nepali restaurant committed to bringing Asheville the best recipes of the Himalayas.
They grind their own spices, which is one of the keys to the development of flavor in their dishes, along with the duration of cooking and variation in temperature, giving each dish distinction. These high altitude herbs and spices are also high in nutrition, placing an emphasis on balance and health.
We walked into Kathmandu Cafe and were immediately transported into another country. There was a fountain in the entry way and the dining room was filled with oranges, reds, greens, and many other vibrant colors. Fabric hung near the entrance lent a ceremonial and sacred feel to the room. Tok Tamang came out of the kitchen to greet us — we would later meet his wife, Tejaswi Malla, who is a relative of the owners, Manoj and Sushila Lama, who also started the retail shop, Himalayas Import.
To start things off, I ordered Tulsi tea and my partner ordered the Mango Lassi, just as I hoped she would, so that I could have a taste. The Tulsi tea was earthy and light, bright but not acidic. The Mango Lassi was a thick, lightly sweet yogurt drink served in a stemmed glass with a straw. Our water cups were steel on the inside and hammered copper on the outside and fit nicely in the hand. These details, in addition to the lighting, warm lively colors, and music, felt like we were in someone’s home. There was an air of familiarity and formality in the same breath.
Our server brought us tastes of their signature non-alcoholic drinks to try. The sweet rose beverage was a blend of lemon and pomegranate juices with cardamom and freshly ground rose petals. The refreshing ginger lemonade contained squeezed ginger juice, cloves, nutmeg, and fennel seed. The green and earthy Jaljeera was an herbal blend of lime juice, honey, cilantro, cumin, ginger, coriander, lemon zest, salt, and asafoetida, which is known to be good for digestion. All were quenching and delectable.
While we enjoyed our drinks, the server brought out Papadum — thin rice-based crisps with mint chutney, given to all diners near the start of the meal. We were next given a plate of various starters, served with a tamarind sauce. It included Aloo Tiki — potato patties seasoned with cumin, fresh ginger, and garlic. The triangular, nicely crusted Samosas were spiced mildly with turmeric. And the Vegetable Pakora consisted of chopped mixed vegetables dipped in spicy chickpea batter and fried. All three were so different from one another, yet made of similar ingredients.
Next, we tried their signature dish, Vanta Bhatra — eggplant slowly roasted in a clay oven and served with rice. This is an amazing vegetarian option. The eggplant was creamy, spiced with garam masala, and like no other eggplant dish I have tried. We also sampled the local bison curry as well as the goat curry, which I recommend if you like rich, tender, mildly spiced curry. Some of the meat was still on the bone, which I attribute to fresh, hand-cut meat.
Tejaswi Malla mentioned that goat is traditionally served at ceremonies and festivals in Nepal. One such festival, Dashain, is a 15-day national festival, this year taking place October 12-26. Momos are another delicacy served during Dashain, which are hand-made Tibetan steamed dumplings with Nepali spices. Cafe Kathmandu offers momos stuffed with bison, lamb, or spicy spinach and served with tomato chutney. Bison is the closest meat to water buffalo, the traditional meat of Nepal.
We next tried the Garlic Naan, which according to our server, is the most popular naan they offer. It was delicious, buttery, and warm. I also recommend the bone-in local trout. The fish was beautifully presented on a bed of onions and garnished with julienned zucchini and carrots. This dish was nourishing, light, and fresh.
I was overwhelmed with Tok’s and Tejaswi’s generosity in letting us sample so much of their menu. The experience felt like I had been invited into their home for the evening. This family-owned and operated restaurant has an intimate dining room and they serve local ingredients when possible.
We left that night carrying two boxes of leftovers and while walking down the street I was stopped by a homeless man who asked if I could spare any food. In the Asheville spirit, I gave him one of our boxes. How could I not when I had just been treated myself. I only hope he enjoyed and was as nourished by the food as I was that evening.
Cafe Kathmandu
90 Patton Ave., downtown Asheville
(828) 252-1080
Lunch: 11:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.
Dinner: 5:30 – 9:30 p.m.