Written by John Swart – From August 2014 –
Welcome to Oregon –
August 8, 2014 –
Greetings, all! – The very formidable, fiery, smoky state of California has finally been put behind me after 1700 miles and 104 days (give or take a few). I feel very fortunate to have actually hiked across the border; several miles of trail have been closed by fires just a few days behind and to the side of me. Many other hikers were forced to hitchhike in order to arrive at my current location: the very sweet little city of Ashland, Oregon.
I am receiving some much needed rest and rejuvenation before my trek across this reportedly mellow state (“mellow” being the level of trail difficulty). Ashland, a city of about 22,000, is often compared to Asheville. The two cities have a very similar vibe. In fact, I’ve met several folks—including the owner of my hostel du jour—who have lived in Asheville. So I feel very much at home here, and I’m continuing to meet friendly souls who reinforce my experience of kindness along the trail.
Unfortunately, my hike across the border was mostly shrouded in smoke, so I couldn’t get the full scenic effect of the beautiful terrain in this area. There were fires east of the trail as I walked it, but they were far enough away not to impact my travel. I’ve heard that the town of Burney, California, where I previously spent the night, is now being evacuated. So the situation is definitely intense out here.
Since my last report from Etna, California, I’ve covered over one hundred miles. I’m now at mile 1726 of the trail. The hike out of Etna passed through the Marble Mountain Wilderness. The scenery was stunning. My eyes and soul were treated to rugged peaks; cool, serene evergreen forests; inviting lakes nestled under the high peaks; and vistas for miles.
Of course, it was not all bliss in the woods. My human condition continued to interject its dastardly ways whenever it could catch me off guard. (More on that later.)
I have been the recipient of incredible generosity on this latest segment of the trail. These acts of kindness, aka trail magic, manifested in several forms. Most recently, one hiker’s parents supported several of us with rides, food, and cold drinks at several points in the last section. Thanks, Cindy and John!
Another hiker, Happy Nomad, whom I met a few months ago and who is currently injured, has been running support for his partner and providing many hikers with trail magic. He has showered us with food, rides, and drinks. He even cooked pancakes for several of us a few days ago.
Further back I was hosted by a truly wonderful family, the Williams, who take in hikers and treat them lavishly in their lovely vacation home near the trail. It was the best eating I’ve done so far on the trail; “pigging out” was redefined.
I also had the pleasure of encountering the trail angels Kermit and Jeanne Bug (pictured below), truly delightful folks who dispense goodies and good will every year from their vintage VW camper. All of these encounters have tended to confirm my growing belief/experience that the essence of human nature is kindness once the dross of conditioning is cleared away. There will be more on that subject as I progress.
So after leaving Burney Falls a few (or a hundred) miles back, I came to the realization that I am addicted to caffeine, especially in the form of coffee. When I stopped in towns off-trail, I often binged on coffee. I loved the caffeine buzz that boosted my energy and sharpened me mentally. But there was a downside. When I returned to the trail, I’d crash from caffeine withdrawal. It became apparent that caffeine has a detrimental effect on my emotional and physical well-being.
I have dealt with other addictions in my life, and I don’t want to get on that merry-go-round again with caffeine. I don’t believe I have an inbuilt “off” switch when it comes to things I crave. So I’ve quit coffee (for now). Practicing awareness of my conditioned predispositions (i.e., addictions) gives me a real sense of freedom from the fetters that have bound me in the past.
Hiking in the silence of the forest is an excellent way to tap into the workings of my inner being. I do have days when I fall into an emotional pit, usually due to exhaustion (days of 20+ miles) or wanting things to be other than they are. But days in the pit are instructive too. A teacher of mine said, “When you pay attention, everything enlightens you.”
Today I will go back into the woods to traverse Oregon. Next stop will be Crater Lake, which is about 120 miles from here, and I hope to report again from there. Along the way I’ll continue my awareness practice, which seems to be deepening as I go.
Thank you all for following along. May you all be happy, healthy, at ease in life, and live in peace.
Crankin’ through Crater Lake –
August 14, 2014 –
Hello from the beautiful historic Crater Lake Lodge. The Lodge, built in 1915, perches on the rim of the quite spectacular Crater Lake. Currently, I’m hunkered down with a few other hikers while we wait out a raging, hail-pelting thunderstorm.
I hiked the 102 miles from Ashland, arriving yesterday afternoon. I was able to average 25 miles per day due to the mellower (although definitely not flat) terrain of Oregon. I have walked through towering evergreen forests, across fields of lava rocks, and over awe-inspiring vistas.
The trail follows the backbone of the Cascade Mountains, which start in California at the 14,100-foot Mount Shasta. Near the rim of Crater Lake, the trail reaches its highest point in Oregon and Washington: 7,500 feet.
I’m holding up quite well physically. There is an Ache-of-the-Day that seems to pass with rest or sometimes just disappear (these are mysterious containers we occupy, I must say). I had an ongoing knee issue which has been resolved (at least for the time being) through yoga and stretching.
Bringing awareness to my body and my hiking form is very important to maintaining physical health—which, of course, greatly affects mental health. My spirits have been generally quite good, but they can be significantly affected if I’m not vigilant about over-extending myself. As suggested by a Moody Blues album title, it’s all a question of balance.
I continue to meet many new hikers. A mass of them descended on this part of the trail after having to skip over a California trail section closed due to fires. Hopefully we’ll be okay the rest of the way. A few days ago, I passed a small fire just one and a half miles off the trail.
So merrily I hike along. Tomorrow I launch into a 27-mile waterless trek and on to what I am told is the most beautiful part of Oregon.
2001: A Trail Odyssey in Oregon –
August 23, 2014 –
Howdy, from Big Lake Youth Camp in what is more or less central Oregon. The camp is near the spectacular Three Sisters Wilderness, through which I’ve been hiking the past few days.
The Sisters are a triad of impressive volcanic peaks, containing 14 to 15 glaciers and towering over the alpine meadows below. Large areas of obsidian lava rock are scattered over the landscape, lending an otherworldly ambiance (which, nonetheless, is not too pleasant underfoot).
Before encountering the Sisters, I passed through what I would call the Lake District. Here were more lakes and ponds than you could shake a trekking pole at. The lakes were surrounded by lush forest and populated by pesky little skeeters (fortunately, far fewer, I’m told, than were on the offensive earlier in the summer).
Of course, with all those watery masses, there were wonderful swimming opportunities to avail myself of. The water was clear, refreshingly cool, and the surrounding forest served as a backdrop. Quite delightful, I must say.
There have been very few opportunities to get into towns in Oregon. Resupply has been mainly done in RV/fishing camps along the way. Portland will be the next and last urban city I visit before the push into Washington.
I continue to meet with acts of kindness and generosity along the way, confirming my faith in the basic goodness of human nature. Yesterday, for example, I came to a road crossing and was greeted by the Pop-Up Chef, a trained chef who dispenses delicious fare to passing hikers from a psychedelically painted trailer.
Less than a mile later, two thru-hikers shared a bounteous spread of bagels and cream cheese, fresh-made cookies, and a variety of drinks. Needless to say, I didn’t need have to dip into my carried food supply. Afterwards I arrived at the youth camp and was greeted by a very friendly staff who offered showers, laundry, meals, and a hiker lounge.
My “just this” mantra continues to keep me grounded and present as I hike. It will be a lifelong endeavor, so far as I can tell, given that my overactive little mind seems poised at every instant to carry me off down rabbit trails. I also struggle with the need to counterbalance exertion with repose in order to stave off physical and emotional stress. This is an ongoing process as I do experience crashes at least a few times per week.
The overall experience, however, is magical. As I hike through the perfection of nature, order, balance, and serenity make an indelible impression upon me. I look out over expansive vistas of mountains and valleys, and I’m transported beyond my physical limits to a place of indescribable grace. So I continue this transformative adventure and open myself to whatever the trail and life have to teach me.
As always thanks so much for following along. I’m currently at mile 2001, with 650 miles left.
May you all experience peace, happiness and well-being on your journeys….
Hiking around the Hood (as in Mount) –
August 28, 2014 –
Namaste, Y’all…
I am currently reposing in my very dear friend’s rather luxurious RV on Trillium Lake, which rests in watery beauty beneath the shadow of the impressive Mount Hood (the highest point in Oregon). It has been quite delightful to swim in the invigorating lake waters with the behemoth towering above: a true scenic feast.
My friends Christopher and Arlene left their home in Savannah last February and have been RV-ing around the country since. They happened to be up here to intercept me as I hiked through. Of course, I don’t believe in coincidences, but we can have that discussion later.
Christopher and Arlene have lavished me with fine food and stimulating conversation the past day (not to mention a REAL comfy bed). Christopher is not just a friend; he has been one of the most (if not the most) significant spiritual mentors in my life. My love and appreciation for him cannot be adequately expressed. My hope for everyone is that they may come to have such a blessed being in their own lives. Arlene has also been a powerful and loving influence in my life. So, as you can imagine, it’s been a marvelous day and a half.
Today I will continue my journey northward six miles from Lake Trillium and the lovely and historic Timberline Lodge. The lodge’s sumptuous breakfast and lunch buffets are legendary among hikers. I may have to partake (for the second time) before hitting the trail.
In 47 miles I will arrive at Cascade Locks on the Columbia River. The Locks are the lowest point on the trail and the closest point to Portland. I will spend a few days there resupplying for Washington and savoring all the delicious culinary and cultural delights I hear Portland has to offer.
While in Portland, I will be the recipient of some more incredible kindness and generosity. My friends, Elaine and Michael Scardaville from Asheville, have children in Portland: Laura and Christian. I haven’t met them yet, but they have offered me accommodations and assistance in resupplying. Not a surprising offer given their parental origin.
Since my last report I have seen some very impressive landscape to put it mildly. I hiked past the the ruggedly beautiful Three Fingered Jack, followed by the Mount Jefferson Wilderness.
Mount Jefferson is the second highest peak in Oregon and does not disappoint with its massive form and glacial formations. At its foot are alpine meadows and glacier-fed lakes. The trail winds around Mount J. for several days worth of hiking.
After climbing a ridge near Mount Jefferson, a whole new vista northward was revealed. Heavily forested expanses intermingled with lakes, while Mount Hood loomed in the distance. The trail for the next couple of days was pretty mellow, as it wound through gorgeous forests and past several lakes. I was able to put in my highest mileage day of 30 miles—a feat that most likely won’t be repeated.
Today I will return to the trail and continue around Mount Hood. I should complete 47 miles to Cascade Locks by Friday. It’s quite the adventure to see what comes next; the scenery changes and often surprises at almost every turn. I’ll fill you in on the details in few days. Til then, may you all live in peace and happiness….
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“I have a penchant for immersion in other cultures and spiritual practices. I consider the forest to be my cathedral where I experience my most intimate communion with my personal divine.”
John Swart has recently spent four months in a yoga Ashram in Virginia, and has embarked on his next adventure which includes travels in Europe and Asia. He will be writing an accompanying blog throughout his travels.
Also while travelling, John plans to work on a book based on his experiences hiking the Pacific Crest Trail, which will greatly expand on his existing blog content.
In October of 2014, John completed the 2,650 mile Pacific Crest Trail. For him, a phenomenal journey that, “… confirms my growing awareness that the essence of human nature is kindness and generosity. I feel I have greatly deepened my own cultivation of these qualities as a consequence of the many examples I have experienced along the trail. My heart opens wider.”