Written by John Swart – From September 2014 –
Adios, My Dear Friend Oregon –
September 1, 2014 –
Happy Labor Day, All! I hope you are engaged in leisurely, fun activities—like hiking, for instance.
I’m currently reposing at Cascade Locks, a small village in the Columbia River Gorge. I’m contemplating the next and final state (Washington) just across the river. The trail is at its lowest point here (140 feet), so, as you can well imagine, serious uphill action looms.
I have not yet decided whether I should take advantage of this perfect hiking day by leaving today or instead taking a rest day and hanging out. But after two days of not hiking, the trail beckons. So I will most likely put in a few miles and thereby begin my foray into Washington.
I hiked into Cascade Locks on Friday and then hitchhiked, bused, and trained to Portland, where my friends’ daughter, Laura, hosted me in her very lovely home. Laura settled me in and then left for the beach, giving me free rein of her house and her nice new car. Pretty amazing stuff (in my opinion), given the fact she’d only just met me. I greatly enjoyed the space and got several errands done.
I was then transported back to the trail yesterday by my friends’ son Christian and his wife Kaitlin. This required that they make a two-hour round trip, but they nonetheless took me on a lovely side trip. We stopped at an observation spot high above the river with captivating views of the gorge and surrounding terrain. Christian further offered me support through Washington if needed, which I found very comforting. So the magic of the trail continues as I commence the final leg.
After my last report from Mount Hood I was treated to some very spectacular sections of trail. The trail wound around the massive mountains, crossing deep fissures left by glaciers, and then ascended into heavy forest. Farther along, I encountered a series of plunging waterfalls amidst lush vegetation along Eagle Creek.
In the distance I could see Mount St. Helens (of eruption fame) and Mount Adams (another high volcanic peak in Washington). Eagle Creek continued on at much lower elevation, winding its way down along rock ledges through a lovely gorge. Thoughtfully provided cables along the sides were much appreciated.
Overall, the scenery far exceeded the advanced billing I’d received from locals. At one point the trail even tunneled through a narrow passage behind a roaring waterfall aptly named Tunnel Falls.
I also had my first bear sighting along the way while grazing on some delicious berries. Fortunately, no berry standoff ensued.
All in all, Oregon has been a delight—both on and off trail. There are many places on my “Must Return To” list.
The next leg of my journey will be either 80 or 147 miles in length. It all depends on how well my provisions hold up. If I run out early, there is a small town with a Zen monastery which hosts hikers. Quite an attractive option, I must say.
The state of Washington boasts some of the most remote sections on the trail as well as the most challenge terrain. It will be an adventure, I’m sure.
So I’ll talk to you up the trail in four to six days. Til then, thanks for all the good vibes you’ve sent my way. As always, they are greatly appreciated.
Peace, happiness, and well-being to you all!
Washington: My New Best Friend –
September 14, 2014 –
Hello, all, from the far reaches of Washington state. Since my last report on September 1st, I have covered half the distance (250 miles) through this state of sensory delights.
From first entry into the state, across the Bridge of the Gods (over the Columbia River), Washington has offered me endless exquisite beauty. I ascended up from the lowest point on the trail through lush forest several thousand feet to the top of the wide Columbia River Gorge. Needless to say the views from the top made the sweat equity worth it with views of the river, rock edifices, and the forest spread out below.
Continuing northward, I passed through miles of dense, healthy forest and on to massive volcanic Mount Adams, with its large glaciers and craggy face. Then came Goat Rocks Wilderness and Razors Edge, which were simply spectacular. The trail crosses a glacier and then, as the name suggests, traverses a thin knife-like edge with sheer drops on both sides. Not a good spot to go on auto pilot!
Mount Rainier loomed some 30 miles in the distance and with 360-degree views. I felt like I was perched on the top of the world. At just over 7000 feet in elevation, it is the highest point the trail reaches in this state.
I was treated to more breathtaking vistas around Chinook Pass, which is quite close to Mount Rainier. While there I feasted on a bounty of huckleberries, saw legions of mushrooms, and experienced visual communion with an elk. The one downside has been an area where the trail passed through a heavily logged area. The forest is logged in sections and then replanted.
I am now in Snoqualmie Pass, about an hour east of Seattle. From this point on, the terrain gets more difficult and includes many steep climbs. I’m told the scenic delights will more than compensate for the muscular strain.
The taxing terrain will most likely impact the 20+ mile-per-day average I’ve managed to maintain thus far in Washington. Harsh weather—in the form of cold rain or snow—may slow my advance as well. So far there have been some very cold mornings but, thankfully, no wet stuff yet.
To deal with the challenge of Washington’s topography, I have further refined my hiking style and my awareness practice. I combine short, gliding steps with a type of yoga-style breathing when I ascend steep climbs. I pay attention (as best I can) to each step and each breath, without focusing on reaching the top. This approach has made a huge difference in my hiking experience.
I also keep an eye on the mental chatter. I try to immerse myself in the silence (or the sounds, if present) of the forest. Thinking drops away, and I am present to all there is in that moment, relaxing in life as it is.
Cold weather is also a teacher. If I greet it with aversion or fear (as I often do), I then suffer from wanting things to be other than they are. But recently I have been able to accept the cold without a heavy overlay of anxiety or tension. Then I relax into the experience of the cold on my skin and bypass the usual suffering–at least during those times I remember my awareness practice.
I hope to complete the trail within 2 1/2 weeks before inclement weather becomes the rule. I look forward to the coming miles and try not to focus solely on the end point.
The trail ahead does not travel close to any towns, so my ability to report in will be spotty. However, I will try to get a blog or two off before the grand finale.
Hope this finds all of you in complete contentment in this most perfect of moments….
The Grand Finale (Hopefully) –
September 18, 2014 –
Happy day, all, from the picturesque and historic community of Skykomish, Washington. I am taking a much needed day of rest (after 15 days and 325 miles of hiking) in anticipation of the final push to the finish line, 180 miles up the trail.
Several folks have told me that the coming section is the most beautiful and spectacular part of Washington. It is also reputed to be the most challenging terrain thus far. Beauty with a price tag, I guess. So I want to be well rested in order to reap maximum possible enjoyment in this final phase. Aside from some fatigue—which is being remedied today—I feel quite able, physically and mentally, for the task.
The last 74 miles was no cake walk either, I can assure you. It demanded multiple arduous climbs and descents through steep, chiseled peaks and deep, glacial valleys. My refined hiking awareness technique (see last post) served me quite well during this section.
Of course, all was not tulips and roses, so to speak. There were times of complete exhaustion and frustration where, I must admit, I became quite testy. A hair trigger temper sometimes erupted over little annoyances (fatigue frequently fueled these outbursts). But when spleen venting occurs, I try to return my attention ASAP to my awareness practice. This can make a big difference. I also try to accept the occasional conniption as part of my humanness (and a trait shared by a few others in my family, I would contend).
A major concern with most hikers currently is the weather. Last year a heavy snow storm arrived early (September 26th) and prevented a lot of folks from completing the PCT. Fortunately, mild conditions are predicted through the coming week, although there have been some very chilly mornings recently.
I believe I have very good weather karma that will carry me to Canada (yes, perhaps a little New Age Woo Woo-ish). I realize I’m not in charge of the universe—thankfully—and I trust things will work out as they are intended, regardless of my opinions on matters. Everything is my teacher.
The outpouring of kindness and generosity also continues to roll along. I am currently staying with a delightful couple, the Dinesmores, who open their home to scores of hikers every year. They have a bunk house with a lounge, shower, laundry, as well as a boat-load of love they offer at no charge.
The Dinesmores’ essential goodness radiates outward to everyone they encounter. It is a true blessing and joy to be in their presence. Other angels of the trail are also always there to help. Continuing proof of the boundless benevolence and generosity us humanoids are capable of, I’d say. I’d also like to give a huge thanks to Gay Burch and Sunny Flaig for their wonderful support. There are just too many to mention.
So merrily (and sometimes not) I roll along through this amazingly enriching experience. I hope to reach Manning Park, Canada in 10-12 days. Some days I desperately want it to be over so I can sleep in a real bed and eat veggies. At other times I am in the present moment, savoring this experience with all my being. It’s all good, as they say (or, at the very least, it’s grist).
I may not get an opportunity to post again before completing the trail. But I will certainly do a recap once I finish, and then I can address all the wonderful comments I’ve received over these last months.
May your days be filled with countless moments of happiness and well-being. As always, thanks for following me along the way. Your presence is felt.
Peace of the forest to you all, ZD
It’s So Close I Can Smell It –
September 26, 2014 –
phone update from zen dawg
John called in with a quick phone update before striking off on the trail again.
He called from a trail angel’s house is Mazama, Washington, situated in the “gorgeous” Pasayten Wilderness. After being caught in a downpour, he decided to stop and dry off momentarily due to being “thoroughly soaked”—shoes, tent, and self.
John is now 68 miles and three days from Manning Park, Canada—the northernmost end of the Pacific Crest Trail. The “prospect of a real bed” dangles before his eyes.
In Manning he will write a blog post to describe the last miles of the trail. The blog will not end there, however, as he plans to continue with updates for a while about the “aftermath” and “after effects” of this little five-month adventure.
Stay tuned…
“I have a penchant for immersion in other cultures and spiritual practices. I consider the forest to be my cathedral where I experience my most intimate communion with my personal divine.”
John Swart has recently spent four months in a yoga Ashram in Virginia, and has embarked on his next adventure which includes travels in Europe and Asia. He will be writing an accompanying blog throughout his travels.
Also while travelling, John plans to work on a book based on his experiences hiking the Pacific Crest Trail, which will greatly expand on his existing blog content.
In October of 2014, John completed the 2,650 mile Pacific Crest Trail. For him, a phenomenal journey that, “… confirms my growing awareness that the essence of human nature is kindness and generosity. I feel I have greatly deepened my own cultivation of these qualities as a consequence of the many examples I have experienced along the trail. My heart opens wider.”