Arriving at Modesto Wood Fire Kitchen, we chose the corner window table, enjoying the fresh air from the open door.

Our server was knowledgeable about the vast menu and was helpful in giving suggestions along the way. She presented the wide array of menu items offering a slant on traditional Italian food. We took our time ordering and decided to try some of the most unique dishes.

We could see the entire restaurant from our seats, including the small bar where a couple pleasantly engaged with the bartender. Soon, more tables filled in and the hush became a cozy stir of conversation and liveliness. The sun was setting and cast a warm hue through the windows before the wire-framed chandeliers took over for the passing daylight.

Our cocktails arrived quickly. The North Carolina Martini was crisp and refreshing, with subtle ice thins floating on top. My partner’s Mountbatten gin cocktail was a fruity bubbly infusion of Chambord and house-made Assam tea syrup and Prosecco. These were soon followed by a wood-fired romaine salad from Modesto’s Mugnaini oven, a respected Italian vessel, and fried duck confit ravioli served with lemon aioli. The crisp, slightly tart salad was the perfect counterbalance to the fried shell of the ravioli and the rich filling. A few currants in the filling introduced a trace of sweetness and the lemon aioli added creaminess and acidity. The two dishes together hit the spot.

For our entrees, I ordered the herb garlic grouper and my partner, the braised lamb. The grouper was plated with cream-colored corona beans in a satisfying tomato sauce, wood-fired vegetables – winter squash, zucchini, creamy eggplant – and squid ink risotto, along with a confetti of colorful vegetable strips and orange relish. The shiny black finish of the risotto stood out beautifully next to the white grouper, and offered a meaty bite. The vegetables were succulent and perfectly roasted.

The lamb shank, braised until it pulled away from the bone, glimmered with a caramelized sauce. The mouthwatering meat was highlighted with orange and dark fruit notes. The polenta evoked just as much richness as the lamb, crisp on the outside, creamy in the middle with a crumbling of chevre on top. Succulent wood-fired vegetables rounded out the meal.

After such a spread, we had to try dessert, even though we could have left jubilant at that moment. We went with the tiramisu because it was our server’s favorite. The lightness and decadence of the tiramisu paired well with the decaf Americano, the best I’ve had in town. The dessert and ambience reminded me that in addition to a wonderful dinner spot, Modesto is a great place to go simply for dessert and coffee.

I enjoyed going for dinner on the early side of a weeknight to enjoy the quiet bustle of the restaurant and take advantage of the excellent service. This place has a cozy yet classic atmosphere with a bend towards intimate – a great date spot.

Modesto
1 Page Avenue, #138, Asheville, NC 28801
(828) 225-4133
Weekdays 11:30-4 p.m. & 5-9 p.m.; Fridays ’til 10 p.m.
Saturdays Noon-4 p.m. & 5-10 p.m.; Sundays Noon-4 p.m. & 5-9 p.m.